Unexpectedly on 19thFebruary our house in Tallong sold. We were left with just over one week to organise removers, comply with the legal requirements and clear the house out.
We could not have done it without the help of very loyal friends. It was a crazy week with lots of anxiety and minimal sleep, but somehow we achieved it all. The removers and packers came on Saturday. We are full of praise for James Pollard and his brother for their care and efficiency with our precious possessions. Everything went into store at Storage King in Goulburn. On Saturday evening we moved to Janet and Dougal Black’s home and are ever thankful for their kindness and help. On Sunday Trish and Steve and their young relatives plus the Blacks came and helped us clear everything else that we did not need. Cliff did an amazing job clearing the garage.
On Tuesday, one week after we signed the sale contract, we closed the door on eight very happy and fulfilling years at 138 Mulwaree Drive for the last time, and left for Canberra. Absolutely exhausted.
Friday, 1stMarch we flew out of Canberra for Buenos Aires via Santiago. A long and tiring trip, my head was still spinning. The 3 hour wait at Santiago in Chile was very trying as we were so tired. I watched an eagle, perhaps a Condor, circling in the distance as I sat half asleep waiting. At Buenos Aires we managed to briefly catch up with Vanessa Fanning and Bruce over breakfast before they set off on their Ponant cruise, a slightly different route to ours. BA is a very large city – 3 million inhabitants around the centre and 16 million in greater BA. We saw very little of it but walked a great deal and managed to find a shop where we bought binoculars, as we couldn’t find ours to take with us. In the evening Ponant organised an outing to a famous steak restaurant where we discovered old French friends from previous cruises. We had a fun evening and enjoyed Argentinian steak and delicious Malbec wine.
Our alarm call was at 4.18 am to have a quick breakfast and get to the airport. It was chaos at the airport, a real bun fight and we were very glad to get on board for a 3 hour flight south to Ushuaia. We had arrived in the real south – surrounded by snow topped mountains amongst the Patagonian fjords. A bus tour and short walks in the Terre del Fuego National Park on a lovely sunny day in the fresh temperatures, passed the day until we boarded Le Lyrial at last. As usual the Captain and crew greeted us at the bottom of the gang-way and we were relieved to get into our very comfortable cabin after all the formalities. A bottle of champagne and a bowl of fruit were a very welcome sight on the table!
In no time we were called for life boat drill, after which we had a light meal and fell into bed, sleeping for 10 hours. This morning we woke at 8.20am – rush, rush, to have a quick breakfast before a lecture on the Falkland Islands at 9.15. We are at sea today passing through the Beagle Straits and have had a chance to catch our breath and do some writing. This evening we will join some French friends at the Captain’s Gala cocktail and Dinner. Tomorrow the Falklands.
We have just returned from our briefing about safety on zodiacs, and preparation for an excursion tomorrow. Our experts who will accompany us on all our expeditions introduced themselves. They include a geologist, an ornithologist, an environmentalist, a navigator, various bird and plant people, and sea creature specialists. And surprisingly, a guy from Tristan da Cunha as we are hoping to visit there. Three of them are Australian, one has a Canadian wife who is the environmentalist and specialist on sea creatures. Eleven in all. They pilot the zodiacs and accompany us on all expedidtions.
Albatross are everywhere soaring gracefully around the ship.
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| Uplands Goose |
The Falklanders consider themselves British to the core, and in the last referendum 97% voted to stay British, only 3 people voted to become Argentinian!! Hope it was a secret ballot.
We will land on the West side of New Island, which is situated on the far south west of the Falklands. We hope to walk to a spot where we can see black browed albatross nesting, plus southern rockhopper penguins. Two farming families live on New Island. A young farmer from one of the families was with us and gave a very interesting presentation about his life there. Most interesting - wool is one of the main exports (Polworth and Corriedale) and because of Brexit it now goes to Australia for export to China. I guess it may have gone to Europe before. Fishing is a huge export. An interesting statistic is that on the Falklands there are 170 sheep per head of population. NZ with 7 per head is looking quite feeble!!
Everyone is excited at the prospect of visiting Tristan da Cunha and Gough Island. Apparently, it is very difficult to land there, so fingers crossed that the weather allows us to.
It is in the area of the Roaring 40s, so I guess that explains the difficulty. Our Expedition Director, Delphine, told us that she has been to this area on 4 trips so far and it has been too dangerous to land. So, fifth time lucky and we hope so too. Everyone watches the weather forecast with great interest.
Gala Dinner: After a Veuve Cliquot cocktail with the captain, and an introduction to some of the senior staff, we joined some French friends and had a superb dinner, accompanied by a Chablis and a Malbec. Delicious.
Tuesday 5th:
We have anchored off the islands in a glorious vibrant orange sunrise. Up early for a quick breakfast before putting on all our gear to go out on a zodiac at 8am. At first the cold weather gear seems very awkward, it takes so long to put it all on. It is absolutely essential and I guess we will become more efficient as the days go by.
The New Island is home to 40 bird species, including the world’s largest population of slender billed prions – also fur seals, sea lions, many ducks, oyster catchers and 4 species of penguin.
We walked over a neck of land to view a colony of rockhoppers, black-browed albatross, Johnny Rook and striated caracara, and penguins. As soon as we walked up from the sheltered bay, we were battling a very strong wind, and some showers. This is where our super protective weather gear is so good.
Watching the birds was wonderful – the albatross so graceful as they swooped and soared. Their chicks fluffy in their nests. Just got to get better at taking off gloves and manipulating walking sticks to take photos!! I think I will make a cord for my gloves to put through the sleeves of my parka – like I used to have as a child! It would make life easier.
We made it back as the weather deteriorated, and now a storm has just blown over. The crew are very strict about cleaning our boots to protect the environment – I was sent back to do mine twice. We also have to clean them before we leave in zodiacs for landings.
New Island was popular as a whaling and sealing station in the 18thcentury. It is now privately owned and run by a trust as a nature reserve. It is also a centre for scientific research.
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| King penguin and baby |
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| Caracara |
This afternoon we went out again to do some bird watching with our bird expert Fabrice. The birds are so tame and have no fear approaching us very closely.
We set off in the zodiacs on a bouncy sea and were several times covered in spray. It was a super outing and Fabrice’s knowledge phenomenal. We were very amused to watch a penguin waddling along taking the long journey from the sea to its nest. At this time of the year they are moulting and in a penguin colony it is surrounded by feathers. If a wind is blowing – that is normal – there are clouds of feathers. They moult each year and grow a new coat before returning to the sea for the next season. The albatross use the same nests every year, often on stony cliffs. The nests are repaired each year and can become quite high. They fly very long distances, and can fly very fast and sleep while flying. They swallow food and regurgitate for their chicks. We were quoted the distance they can fly as 12,000 to 15,000 kilometres. We watched a variety of geese and ducks feed in kelp by the shore. The ever ready Caracaras, with their fierce falcon like faces always ready to pounce on a vulnerable small bird. Upland goose and ruddy headed goose, many slim billed prions and oyster catchers.
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| Walking back to zodiacs |
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| An old supply boat |
The excursions are very well organised and the crew so helpful.
John has found a group of people who would like to play bridge, so they are having a short game before we go down to the theatre for the day’s briefing and hear the plans for tomorrow. This evening we will dine with a Kiwi couple. Strangely enough they were growers of kiwi fruit, now retired. There is quite a large proportion of English speakers on the ship this time, some of those include Germans, Russian, Indonesian, Japanese, Americans (2 very large) English, Scottish, Australians and New Zealanders. On past trips there has been 75% French, this time I think about 50%. Language wise, it is French or “other” which means the others need to understand English. Occasionally there is a lecture in German by one of the guides who is German.
Still suffering from jet lag and having difficulty sleeping – do hope after all the out of doors activity I will sleep well tonight. It has been a fun day so far.
Wednesday, 6thMarch – Grave Cove, Falkland Islands.
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| King Penguins marching! |
Another early start to hear a talk from a local farmer. A French couple came sailing to Antarctica years ago and visited the Falklands regularly, they ended up buying a 13,000 hectare farm on West Falkland 12 years ago and started organic sheep farming. They are now permanent residents and have 4,500 sheep. Wool is the 3rdlargest export of the islands. First is fishing, second tourism. Of the total population of 3,500 only 300 live on the West island. Most of the population live in and around Stanley the capital, situated on the East island. The West Islanders use a small taxi plane to get to Stanley – subsidised for residents.
The local farmers are involved in replanting native tussock grass and sorrel to stop erosion. In past years it has been over-grazed.
Today is miserable and very wet, so we have decided not to go out on zodiacs this morning, we will wait until this afternoon when we move to Saunders Island and hope it will be better.
I am very happy to see copies of Claudette, both in English and French versions still here in the library and being borrowed!
Saunders Island:
What an incredible experience – we were surrounded by penguins: Magellanic, Gentoo, Rockhoppers and a gorgeous small colony of King Penguins. There was also a colony of around 200 nests of black browed albatross.
We met the owner of the island – he has 35,000 acres and 6,000 sheep and runs a very strict programme of conservation for the birds and beasts. I am astounded at the amount of wool that is exported from the Falklands. They graze on the tussock grass and cause no harm for the birds and animals. When he bought the island there was a herd of reindeer which he exported.
What we saw: Gentoo Penguin, Magellanic,(Jackass penguin because of the noise like an ass) King, Rockhopper. Black browed albatross, blue eyed shag, dark on the back and white on the belly for security. Turkey vultures. Kelp gull – quite large and attack everything even whales. Dolphin gull. Kelp goose female striated with black back and female white. Upland goose. Ruddy headed goose. Long tailed meadowlark. Dark faced ground-tyrant. Falkland thrush. Blackish oyster catcher, Tussac bird – blackish Cinclodes. magellenic oyster catcher. Steamer ducks. Giant Petrels, north and south, striated caracaras. Snowy sheathbill. (garbage birds of the colonies as they feed on waste in the bird colonies and do not go to sea, they don't have webbed feet) Commersant dolphin. Birders would be in heaven here.
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| Fur seals |
A Change Over Time: In the past sealers came for the fur skins. In 1788 sealers brought back 40,000 furs and tonnes of seal oil. They almost destroyed the population of fur seals and the trade became no longer viable. This has all been stopped and now populations are bounding back.
Whaling was active on New Island, shut down in 1916, after that they moved to South Georgia. Whale oil was used for lamps, bones for corsets, knitting needles etc. Conservation programmes have been created and the animals are coming back.
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| King Penguin having a nap |
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| baby fur seal |
In the Falklands 50 nature and wildlife reserves have been established, some government and some private. Sheep farming and wildlife conservation together seem to work.
Falklands Conservation group has been established – Peter Scott very active. Great web site.
Charles Darwin visited Falklands twice in the Beagle, 1833 and 1844.
“One of the quietest places I have ever been to” he said. He found and collected heaps of fossils.
Our botanist Annina talked about plants, particularly Lichen which is abundant in orange and green. Lichen is extraordinarily resourceful. Crustose lichen helps to tell the age of a rock or a skeleton or volcanos.
The weather was beautiful with a very strong wind when we set out for land. We walked across the Neck stopping many times to take photos of the magnificent penguins. There was a colony of around 200 albatross but too difficult to photo as they stretched up a sloping cliff and they are the same colour as the shale.
The weather changed quickly and our return journey to the ship in the zodiacs was a different story. The tide was coming in and the wind was almost frightening. We had to wade out above the tops of our boots to climb unto the zodiac which was held steady by 3 mariners in wet suits. We bounced home and were covered in spray.
We had to divert in the early morning to Stanley to unload a sick member of the crew and the resident Falklander - Dale.
Now we are on the way to South Georgia and the Sandwich Islands. I spent most of day in bed feeling very seasick. After some tablets I am able to stand up again. Now I feel fine and we had a great lecture and recap yesterday.
Thursday 7thMarch: We are just about to go to a lecture by Australian Joel on South Georgia. He is passionate about South Georgia, it is much loved by naturalists. Being Australian he uses the word stuff a lot.
South Georgia is 65 km long, and 35km wide. Closest country is Falkland Islands, 1390 kms away. It is a British Overseas Territory in Antarctica. Twice as many breeding birds and wildlife in SG than the whole Antarctic Peninsula. The highest peak is Mt Paget 2,934m high. 11 peaks are over 2,000 metres. Rocks: Gnesiss, Schists, volcanic tuff (ash) leaving lots of fossils. (Scotia plate continuous from South America). 1985 it became independent, depending on Britain for defence and foreign affairs. There is no permanent population, 35 people in summer, 16 in winter. Sandwich Islands have no population, perhaps a few scientists from time to time.
It has purely a tundra climate. Grytviken and Bird Island are 54 degrees south. No airport and no scheduled ferry service. No emergency services. Fishing is a big industry – Patagonian toothfish known as white gold – illegal fishing almost destroyed them. Stamps are a source of income as well as tourism. Fishing is strictly patrolled. Conservation Antarctica – South Georgia and Sandwich are included. Museum at Grytviken.
History: 1775 UK claimed sovereignty by Captain James Cook. Named after King George III
Sealing was a big industry. In 1914 Shackleton ended up in Stromness. He died of a heart attack and is buried in the cemetery at Grytviken. The largest blue whale caught here was 34 metres. WWII commandeered vessels so whaling stopped. Argentine involved in war of 1980 has left a shipwreck still leaking oil. 1982 was the battle of Grytviken. Still security surveying going on by British planes based in the Falklands.
Antarctic Convergence: is a border at the edge of the shelf warm (shallow) versus cold deep water. 26 native vascular plants, and non-vascular: mosses, 85 species of liverworts, 150 species of lichen.
Birdlife International is actively protecting the birds. South Georgia Pipit – songbird is almost extinct. There has been an intensive programme getting rid of the invasive species- reindeer, rats and mice. No native land mammals are found here. The island is monitored and continually checked for rodents using trained dogs and other methods. It was declared free of rodents only as recently as 2018. Habitat restoration has been an excellent result. Greater biodiversity here than the Galapagos. Grytviken: Norwegian for Bay of Pots.
Tetonic Wanderings of The Falkland Islands and South Georgia. By Sebastian our Geologist from WA.
We are now in a depth of 3,000 metres of water as we cross 1400 kms from Falkland Isles to Georgia. Falklands originally moved from South Africa. It consists of 778 islands and sits on the Patagonian shelf an extension of the Andes. The ocean is very shallow – less than 200 metres. The low islands are mainly sandstone and quartzite. Some sedimentary rocks have fossils.
Inside the deep water of the Antarctic Convergence South Georgia is completely different. Mountainous with lots of fjords and glaciers. Greywacke and shale, basalt and andesite. Rocks are very young compared to the Falklands. Depth around Sandwich Islands south of Georgia is about 6,000m.
We have just been to yet another preparation lecture and briefing on landing in South Georgia. The rules are very strict. We have had to prepare all our clothes. Vacuum all Velcro on our coats, inside the pockets and the hood, vacuum our woolly beanies, inside and out of our gloves, our waterproof pants and wash and scrub our boots and walking sticks. This is to prevent carrying any invasive seeds or anything that can cause harm unto land. We were also warned how to behave with the seals who can be quite cheeky. Stand still and face them, don’t run – they can run on their back legs and move much faster than you and it may cause them to bite. Their mouths are covered in dangerous bacteria and a wound may take months to heal. We also had to sign an indemnity form for the government, presumably if you are foolish enough to get a seal bite, they don’t hold themselves responsible. We hope to land at Grytviken and some other sheltered spots on the North East side of the island. We hope to see lots of different kinds of penguins including macaroni and apparently there is a big colony of king penguins here.
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| John exploring. |
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| full zodiac. |
9thMarch: South Georgia
We hope to reach Fortuna Bay about 2pm today, when we will attempt zodiac landings if the weather is kind enough. If the wind is very strong it can be a problem. We are starting to meet icebergs and whales blowing. The bay is at the foot of sharply rising mountains forming a perfect crescent. There is a large colony of King Penguins here.
Lecture by Steve Martin one of our Experts/Guides, an historian from Sydney. He has written a book “The History of Antarctica” published by the State and Mitchell Library. He is at work now on a book on the secrets of Sydney.
There is a big effort going on to return South Georgia to the unspoilt wild islands they used to be before the whalers, sealers and explorers came in the 19th/20thc. Whaling and sealing stopped in 1964/5.
Fortuna Bay, St Andrews Bay and Grytviken.
We are very lucky with the weather: about 2c and sun glinting on the snowy tops.
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| Getting friendly with curious penguins. |
St Andrew’s Bay: Every day seems to get better. Another wonderful adventure to this large bay with the biggest colony of King Penguins in the world. Cold and sunny and great for walking – even though there was a lot of stopping and taking photos. There were several groups of elephant seals – what a strange lot of enormous ungainly animals they are. Some male adults weigh up to 5 tonnes, and some of the young 500 kgs. To get near the main penguin colony we had to wade across a river with a strong current. Fortunately, we were helped by the guides.
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| Enormous elephant seals |
Grytvikken
Grytviken was very interesting – just a small community live there permanently, 35 in summer and 16 remain in winter. Sarah – the local guide – has been there for 25 years and loves it. We went on a guided tour of the settlement, and the whaling station. It was much bigger than I had expected – up to 350 men worked there at one time. The destruction of whales was terrible. We walked around as much as possible, a good little museum, an interesting church with a library for the whalers and all the huge machinery from the whale factory out in the open, with rusting massive tanks that used to hold the whale oil. There is a memorial to Irish man Tom Crean in the church.
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| Old whaling station at Grytvikken |
In one 1792/3 season a ship took 3000 barrels of sea elephant oil and 50,000 fur seal skins.
Almost extinct after this. Whaling started in 1914 and Reindeer were introduced. Whales were enormously profitable.
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| Bust of Shackleton in the church at Grytvikken |
An American Robert Cushman Murphy visited in 1912 and wrote “The Log Book for Grace” a record of his visit. He found only 300 fur seals left by then. He also wrote an article for Harpers Monthly, January 1914. Photographer Frank Hurley went there in 1914 and wrote about the horrors of whaling. And in praise of the beauty of the penguins, birds, seals and flowering plants.
In the 50s South Georgia became known as a wildlife paradise once again.
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| Commandant at Ernest Shackleton's grave with a shot of Jameson in hand. |
Captain Cook was first to step ashore – sadly because of his reports seal hunters came and brought vermin with them. The impact was huge, rats took eggs, chicks and small birds. (Pippits almost disappeared). The problem was tackled by a first eradication program in 2011, with 2 more in 13 and 15. Glaciers were essential in dividing the island for the eradication program as the rodents could not cross them. Unfortunately, they are retreating by 2 km a year. Monitoring and protecting continues against the rodents, using specially trained dogs. There are also active projects to save the Southern Right Whale – which was almost distinct. It continues to have poor body condition and regular beaching – no one knows why.
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| Colony of King Penguins. |
In all these wonderful wildlife sanctuaries where there is an abundance of fascinating creatures – the most dangerous enemy is human. www.sght.org
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| Tom Crean an Irishman was a loyal member of Shackleton's team |
Monday, March 11th.
We had a very early call this morning at 6.30am for a zodiac tour so see macaroni penguins.
It was well worth the effort as we saw so many other interesting birds and beasts as well. A leopard seal hung around our zodiac, popping its head up frequently to have a good look at us. Lots of pippits – their numbers are recovering very quickly since rodents disappeared. A wonderful outing, and the last for several days as we now set off for Tristan de Cunha.
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| Macaroni penguins |
Rough weather has been forecast for our journey. The crew battened the hatches, closed the 6thfloor restaurant and bar, stopped the lifts and warned everyone to secure their possessions in their cabins. We had lunch on deck 2 while massive waves were washing against the windows. Everyone is staggering around trying to balance. Earlier the wind was 95kph – and the waves very high. Just hope it eases up over the next few days and the weather improves before we reach our destination. It would not be possible to land in this weather.
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| A leopard seal hanging around our zodiac. |
Remi gave us a wonderful lecture on Whales and dolphins: Cetaceans.
A fascination session about these special marine mammals who suckle their young. So much information overwhelming. Thousands and thousands have been slaughtered with consequences for the whole planet. Their feces feed krill who help to give oxygen.
At the recap session this evening Sebastian talked about the mountains and glaciers.
Sedimentary and volcanic rocks make up the rugged mountains of South Georgia. Glaciers are eroding the mountains as they flow down to the coast and calve off. They pick up huge rocks which move with the flow. Masses of stuff transported by the glacier. Freeze thaw action causes masses of very fine sediment to flow out to sea and affects the colour.
Jamie spoke about “Warming South Georgia”
Waters around the islands have been warming. It has a big impact on the krill, the base of the food chain. So many glaciers are retreating.
Effect on animals – the birds and seals have to go further to get food, and there are predatory birds waiting to attack their young who are left alone for long periods of time.
Big decline in wandering albatross: warming and long line fishing, and also have to go further to forage for food for their chicks.
Reduction in krill affects all. Warming waters are a disaster – becomes too warm for them to live.
Steve: reminded us of Frank Hurley in South Georgia 1917 and showed some of his great images.
He also noted the library for the whalers at Grytviken included Biggles, Henry Miller, Moulin Rouge, life of Toulouse Lautrec. A.Fielding. And many books in other languages. Steinbeck East of Eden.
Delphine told us about the winter she spent as a researcher on Crozet Island: French Antarctic base, Delphine Auré spent the winter there in 97. Women weren’t allowed, so she had a struggle. There were tests to make sure you don’t get the “over wintering” trauma. A military station was built there in the 60s.
Volcanic origin. She monitored and tagged several animals including the wandering albatross. She lived by the cycle of the animals. Albatross live to about 60 years.
Annina spoke about the Southern Elephant Seal.
The male weighs about 5,000 kg, much larger than females who are about 400/800kg
They were over hunted up until 1964. Harems are up to 100, but mostly around 30. Females lose weight during lactation. Pup at birth 30-40kg, at weaning 130kg.
These seals spend most of their life at sea 90%. Dive down to extreme depths 500m and sometimes twice that.
There is a great deal of detail in this blog which I have included as a reminder to me of the enormous amount of information we received from the Expedition Team. You can always skip it if it doesn't interest you.!!
The next blog will be From Tristan da Cunha to Capetown.
There is a great deal of detail in this blog which I have included as a reminder to me of the enormous amount of information we received from the Expedition Team. You can always skip it if it doesn't interest you.!!
The next blog will be From Tristan da Cunha to Capetown.
1 comment :
Superbe journal de voyage. Nous pensons à vous. Vincent
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